L O R E A
Welcome to Lorea Olávarri's guide to Mexico City
Before she was a chef, Lorea Olávarri studied fashion and designed jewelry. Today, as we meet up in the dappled shade of Condesa, she presides over a very different but equally creative universe in Mexico City. Lorea is the creative force and hardworking pair of hands behind some of the city’s most interesting and memorable restaurants. A long way from the white tablecloths today, we’re getting to know Lorea through the little things that make her happiest: a perfectly made quesadilla, a good coffee, a little sudoku, or simply taking the long way home.
Lorea's culinary journey began long before she opened her first restaurant.
Growing up on her family’s ranch in Jilotepec, tending to the vegetable garden and braiding rabbit intestines were all part of everyday life. Entirely self-taught, Lorea developed something of an obsession with making fresh pasta during the pandemic, learning her craft from Italian nonnas on YouTube. What began as a homemade pasta business, supplying friends and family, eventually became a Nero, a little pasta shop that gradually blossomed into a restaurant. From there came a Er rre, her bistro in Polanco, and most recently a Lorenzo, perhaps the fullest expression of what she calls her “cuisine of memory.” Romantic and playful, Lorenzo brings together the influences of her childhood, a fascination with seasonal ingredients and a belief that everything on the plate should have a reason for being there.
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But inspiration doesn’t always arrive in the kitchen. For Lorea, it might come while wandering the streets of her beloved La Condesa, a little world of its own within the enormous metropolis of Mexico City. From morning pastries at her sister’s bakery to afternoon Martinis and long dinners among friends, Lorea invites us into a neighborhood best enjoyed on foot, and without too much of a plan.
But inspiration doesn’t always arrive in the kitchen. For Lorea, it might come while wandering the streets of her beloved La Condesa, a little world of its own within the enormous metropolis of Mexico City. From morning pastries at her sister’s bakery to afternoon Martinis and long dinners among friends, Lorea invites us into a neighborhood best enjoyed on foot, and without too much of a plan.
The Popocatépetl fountain, with its beautiful Talavera tilework, is a natural place to begin a morning exploring Condesa. From this little roundabout, a Avenida Ámsterdam winds through the neighborhood, offering all manner of culinary and artistic distractions. Right where the roundabout meets Calle Cacahuamilpa you can find a Odette, the bakery founded by Lorea’s sister, Odette Olávarri, and named after her.
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Lorea likes to begin her mornings with a little jump rope before heading out with her dog in search of a good coffee and something sweet. At a Odette, a flat white and a chocolatín, or perhaps a crisp guava pastry, are go tos and after all, she’s supporting the family. Through the window, we watch as meringues are carefully lifted from their molds and crowned with fresh red berries. There’s something beautifully familiar about a Odette, from the comforting aromas of the bakery to the little rituals of its kitchen. Find a seat in the little garden plot and watch the city rise; dog walkers, commuters, and tourists setting out to discover the city. For Lorea, it’s a lovely way to start the day, surrounded by family and the simple pleasures of a good breakfast.
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continuing along Avenida Ámsterdam, we find ourselves traveling from one Mexican volcano to another, at least in name. Our next stop is the Iztaccíhuatl roundabout, named for the snow-capped volcano whose silhouette resembles a woman lying asleep. Nearby, on Calle Iztaccíhuatl, sits a Café La Selva , a Mexico City classic where the service is quick, the prices are friendly, and a plate of huevos albañil with freshly squeezed orange juice makes for a thoroughly satisfying breakfast.
Another favorite can be found near the corner of Nuevo León and Saltillo. At a Las Quesadillas de la Güerita , Aurora has been serving up quesadillas for 14 years. Lorea is particularly fond of the masa and the green salsa, although it’s the chicken tinga with cheese that gets her nod today.
And before the morning disappears entirely, there’s hopefully still time for a detour to a La Americana , a bookshop with a wonderful selection of magazines. The sort of place where a quick browse can easily turn into a much longer visit.
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MIDDAY
Lorea loves walking to work. Partly for the pleasure of it, but also because it gives her time to think. She’s a chef for whom everything has a purpose, from the ingredients on a plate to the atmosphere of a restaurant. Every detail should make sense, every decision should have a reason behind it. But bringing all those ideas together requires a little room to think, and sometimes a change of scenery.
Crossing the beautiful Parque México, we arrive at Hule a Hule , a vinyl bar, café and cocktail spot on Michoacán Street, and one of Lorea’s favorite places to collect her thoughts. Here, it’s easy to feel as though you’ve settled into a friend’s living room. Come alone with a little work or a sudoku, or meet friends for a Martini. Music is at the heart of everything, with a collection of vinyl that somehow always seems to be right on the right vibe for the moment. The low lighting and raw textures give the place a nostalgic charm, and there’s this unspoken invitation to stay a little longer than you intended.
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Soon enough, however, another question demands our attention. It’s one Lorea remembers hearing constantly from her father:
" Where are we going to eat? "
In Condesa, she has a very good
answer. a Cantina Xel-Ha is an
awesomely unpretentious spot
serving Yucatecan food.
“The food and service are
spectacular,” Lorea tells us,
ordering a bowl of sopa de lima
to start. Around the table are
Santiago Muñoz Moctezuma of
Maizajo, a Condesa Gin City
Guides favorite, and other
friends, and before long there’s cochinita pibil and rice with plantains to share. The conversation grows louder as the afternoon unfolds, the cantina hums with life, and somehow the usual high-paced blur of Mexico City feels pretty far away.
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a Cantina Xel-Ha
Condesa rewards the curious. There’s always another corner to explore, another place worth pulling up a chair. “Condesa is an excellent neighborhood to get a taste of everything,” Lorea tells us. And some of the best discoveries are the least formal. Take the Friday street market on Nuevo León, where stalls offer everything from fresh ingredients to dishes prepared on the spot. It’s a wonderful reminder that some of Mexico City’s most memorable food doesn’t come with a reservation.
For something sweet, Lorea takes us to a Quiero Gelato on Avenida Ámsterdam. As the chef behind Lorenzo and a Er rre , she’s someone who knows that the simplest things often demand the greatest attention to detail. Here, it’s all about good ingredients, careful technique and knowing when to leave well enough alone. Strawberry, pistachio, yogurt or honey, each flavor makes its case without too much fuss. Sometimes, a really good gelato is all you need.
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Another favorite is a Boteo, a beautiful little shop where plants, craftsmanship and landscape design come together. Here, botany becomes something of an art form, with even the pots receiving as much attention as the plants they hold. And we have to admit, our little creative team has a particular soft spot for BOTEO’s wonderfully singular visual identity. It’s a lovely place to linger over an afternoon coffee, browse the greenery or settle in with a book before continuing on your way.
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DUSK
As the day draws to a close, there’s one last stop, and this time Lorea is taking us somewhere very much her own: a Lorenzo . After a day spent exploring the places she loves, we’re finally somewhere she’s created herself.
Black and white, formal and informal, international and local, a Lorenzo is a study in contrasts, rather like Lorea herself. There’s elegance here, but nothing stiff about it. Every detail has been considered, yet the purpose is wonderfully simple: good food, good company, and a reason to linger.
The menu brings together the people, places and memories that have shaped her cooking. Fresh pasta is a nod to Nero, where her restaurant story began. A seasonal vegetable mille-feuille takes her back to the family ranch in Jilotepec, while a classic Beef Wellington shares the menu with more unexpected creations, like gnocchi with clams. There’s nostalgia here, certainly, but no interest in standing still.
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By the time dinner is over, Lorea’s “cuisine of memory” no longer feels like an idea that belongs only in the kitchen. We’ve seen it in the morning rituals, the family ties, the favorite tables and the little places she returns to.
There's always something else to discover in Condesa, of course.
Which is as good an excuse as any to take the long way home.
