“She strolls every day as if it were the first in the city”
There is not a day when, always dressed in black, Sofía walks the streets of Mexico City as if she already knew them. She strolls every day as if it were the first in the city, where she arrived in 2020 and decided to stay. She looks up, finding beauty in the architecture, half crowded out by spilling ferns, and down, noticing wandering roots plowing through the pavement, and cracks from past earthquakes. “Chaos is the new order” is what is reads on one of the white walls of her workshop, located in WHERE. It’s also the word that permanently adorns her left arm. Chaos. This is the willful permanent state of Sofía and her relationship with the city. It is not only the reason why she is fascinated by it, and what reminds her of Buenos Aires, but also what permeates her artistic work. Her works are characterized by neutral colors, where black, gray, and white are protagonists. Join Sofia as she takes us through some of her Mexico City highlights, and be sure to follow her for upcoming exhibitions and shows. Let’s start walking.
¨CDMX is a mixture of all the colors that ever existed¨
01. Un café por favor
The early hours are what Sofía enjoys the most. Although she usually starts her day over a hot mate (steeped yerba mate) – never far from her Argentinean roots – she often chooses to have breakfast out, starting the day in the bustle of Mexico City over coffee.
She’ll often head out the door to start the day by heading one of the city’s specialty coffee spots, of which there are a ton, but they can be hard (but rewarding) to find. Her favorite is AFARMACIA INTERNACIONAL, which has spots in both Condesa and Centro. The Condesa location is on a corner, on the ground floor of a retro-style building, with a window facing the street spilling light onto a narrow, sunken floored cafe with incredible coffee and breakfast. (Sidenote: this is also where you’ll often find the Condesa Gin creative team sharing ideas). Sofía also recommends A QUENTIN CAFÉ in Hipódromo. Reliably good coffee and baked goods, and incredibly friendly staff. Another option is the romantic A CAFÉ NIN in Juárez where you can sit a little longer over an extensive breakfast menu and hear the buzz of multilingual conversations. For our American friends, there’s no real drip coffee here, it’s espresso only, so you can get away with an Americano if that’s what you’re looking for.
02. PEACEFUL SPACES
The first place Sofía would take someone visiting Mexico City is the Ael Bosque de Chapultepec. “It’s where I like to go on a lazy afternoon,” Sofía states, noting it was the first place that caught her attention when she moved to Mexico City from her native Argentina. The 810-hectare forest, located in the Miguel Hidalgo borough, embodies something quintessentially Mexican: families at play, sculptures, monuments, art installations, sound baths, food stalls and vendors, and of course, greenery and lots of it. With four distinct sections featuring lakes, fountains, sports spaces, and the Ael Museo de Antropología ,this is undoubtedly one of the city’s most representative spaces, and the lungs of the city. Over its history, over four thousand archaeological objects have been found there. The contrast between the busy avenues, traffic, and noise surrounding the forest with its tranquility and natural energy is striking. Visiting it feels, in Sofía’s words, “kind of like being transported to another place … far from a big city. I need that sometimes, you know? Bosque de Chapultepec welcomes everyone.”
03. Art and architecture on every corner
Sofia needs no prompting to pick her favorite spot to take in the architectural offerings of the city. Her pick:AEl Museo Soumaya “It’s crazy,” says Sofía. ¨It’s spectacular, not only for its selection of art but for its architecture. I love the architecture of Mexico City and showing it to people.” The Soumaya is top of her list. In general, her advice for those visiting the city is to look upwards; pause and admire the buildings. You’ll notice the architecture often hidden behind a tangle of overhead wires and creeping greenery. But look all around you – even down. “I always observe the ground when I stroll around, captivated by the marks of time. The cracks in the pavement are kind of iconic” she notes. (We’ll add that looking down, particularly around Condesa and Roma is an occupational necessity – the undulating concrete can take a wandering visitor by surprise…).
It’s this kind of beautiful haphazardness that is one of the things that she loves most about the city. After visiting the Amuseo de arquitectura contemporánea, she suggests stopping by its neighbor,AMuseo Jumex. This museum exclusively houses contemporary and conceptual works and is just a short walk from the first. “Both are fascinating and its a beautiful way to learn about the city.”
Another of her favorites is the AMuseo de Diego Rivera Anahuacalli. She finds herself mesmerized by its collection, where pre-Hispanic and contemporary art engage in a dialogue, and its unique architecture that mixes cavernous spaces and beautiful temple-like passageways. Inside, a bridge spans across the space, leading to a large courtyard filled with classic Mexican elements. Anahuacalli is considered a temple of art, conceived by the renowned Mexican artist it’s named after, as both an architectural marvel and a City of Arts. On the museum’s esplanade, there’s a stone ring, characteristic of a ball game played by the pre-Columbian peoples of Mesoamerica. “Visiting this museum gives you the feeling of being in a place where really significant events took place. The history is breathing there.” she says.
In addition to museums, Sofía also frequents spaces featuring local and international contemporary art, offering temporary exhibitions and various activities throughout the year. She recommends visiting the contemporary art laboratory AEl Arenero,as well as AEspacio Unión, managed by contemporary artists, and the galleries aColector and ASalón Silicón.
¨"Visiting this museum gives you the feeling of being in a place where really significant events took place. The history is breathing here.”
04. Drawing inspiration from chaos
Tangled cables hang from one post to another, decorating the landscape. Shops collide with their equally colorful neighbors, plastered with colorful advertising posters, or artfully painted logos. Mexico City’s markets bustle with a mix of gastronomy, crafts, technology, plants, herbal remedies and much more. “Mexico City is a city of chaotic opportunities; everyone will find something they like,” comments Sofía. She explains that this chaos is what has kept her spellbound since she moved to the city. “CDMX is a blend of every color that has ever existed,” says Sofía. It’s this chaos, this explosion of stimuli, that inspires many of her artistic works.
According to the artist, the a SAN RAFAEL neighborhood is one of the city’s most iconic areas. It’s precisely the chaos, noise, and visual stimuli that inspire her so much. a SANTA MARÍA y a EL CENTRO are also her choices for their vibrant style. “The places that inspire me the most are the street-level spots, where I see more diversity and chaos. The hustle and bustle of Mexico inspires me.” For those looking to find vintage items, enjoy a drink on the street while listening to music, or simply wander among clocks, fabrics, leather goods, antique furniture, carpets, and thousands of other objects, Sofía recommends visiting the aTEPITO y a LAGUNILLA. “Visually, CDMX has an immense level of information. The same goes for auditory stimulation.”
05. Diverse tastes
The diversity of Mexico City’s culinary scene is one of its hallmarks. Its streets are filled with Mexican eateries, as well as those from far off countries offering unique flavors. “Everything is happening all at once. You can find anything, anywhere, at any time. The range of options is endless. It’s a cauldron of opportunities.”
Sofía is particularly fascinated by Asian cuisine, especially Japanese. Whenever possible, she enjoys dining at one ofaKoku tables – in either of its two locations, though she prefers sitting at the bar. From there, she can watch the flurry of talented hands preparing Koku’s gyoza, donburi, ramen and rolls. The best time to head there is in the evening, when the space glows red, illuminated by its characteristic bold lighting. A couple of other spots make her list too: The menu and ambiance ofaMog,the overflowing plantlife and pan-Asian offerings ofaPlantasia, the elegant interior design of aKura . She recommends trying ramen, jiaozi, edamame, and tempura – her favorite dishes – at any of these restaurants.
06. After Dark
For Sofía, the best way to gather and chat with friends is over a cocktail. On weekends, you’re likely to find her at VeriBari , savoring one with her artist friends. This Russian bar is quite the hidden gem. It’s a favorite among the artistic community for hanging out, sharing creative ideas, and discussing projects each artist is working on. The ambiance is cozy and relaxed, with various DJs setting the mood with sounds matching the creativity of the bouncing conversations. If the night calls for more action, Sofía recommends checking out the (terrifyingly named, but fun) raves Brutal, NAAFI or Pervert; known for their techno music, inclusive atmosphere, and eye-catching outfits.
Quickfire favorites
FAVORITE BAR TO DRINK CONDESA GIN
Gin Gin condesa ais the right spot when it comes to a good pre-drink. With house, funk and nu disco music.
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS:
Kura a Striking interior design. Order the ramen, jiaozi, edamame or tempura.
Plantasia a the best vegan food in Roma. It gives you the feeling of having lunch or dinner in the middle of the jungle.
THE BEST SPOT TO CHILL AT NIGHT:
Las brujas a Very intimate, with a feminine vibe, creative cocktails.
THE BEST SPOT TO DANCE
La pervert inclusive space where all identities and bodies coexist around the best house and techno music.
Club Colima a A cultural meeting place in the heart of Mexico City. Curated bar. Great music by Latin American artists.
Yuyu a A true CDMX nightlife classic. It has a radio station called Drama upstairs.
FAVORITE STREET FOOD:
Tacos Tony aTry the campechano, I ask for “cachete , lengua, sudadero, trozo”. Do it.
FAVORITE MUSEUMS:
Museo Soumaya a Spectacular, not only for its selection of art but for its architecture.
Museo Jumex aExclusively contemporary and conceptual works.
Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli a–Pre-Hispanic and contemporary works. Very distinctive architecture. Beautiful.
FAVORITE GALLERY
Maia aIs a Contemporary art gallery in the heart of the Roma neighborhood. “I like that it promotes Mexican artists.”
OMR aMany contemporary pieces. Worth visiting.
Unión aMany exhibitions highlighting social issues.
DON’T ASK JUST COME:
Covadonga aThe best atmosphere and great option if you want to try Asturian food.
